The hutong still exist, but they are a preserved artifact, a Disneyland of tradition. Most original residents have been moved to high-rise suburbs in Huilongguan or Tiantongyuan. The remaining hutong have been "renovated"—which often means replacing old brick with polished grey concrete, installing fiber-optic cables, and fixing plumbing. The public toilets now have heated seats and hand dryers. But the soul has changed. The narrow lanes are now filled with craft beer bars, boutique hotels, and vegan cafes run by entrepreneurs in skinny jeans. To live in a hutong in 2020 is a status symbol for the wealthy, not a necessity for the poor.

The hutong —the ancient alleyways that crisscross the city—were the heart of Beijing. Life was communal, loud, and unhygienic. Public toilets (often just a trench over a cement pit) were shared by dozens of families. In winter, residents hauled coal bricks inside to heat kang (stone beds). Laundry hung overhead like prayer flags. Everyone knew their neighbors. Children played tiao fangzi (hopscotch) on the cracked stone. The walls were grey, the doors were red, and the past felt tangible.

Environmental quality highlights a complex arc. As the city industrialized through the 1990s and early 2000s, it faced severe air pollution challenges. However, by 2020, aggressive policy shifts—including moving heavy industry out of the city and transitioning to clean energy—resulted in "remarkable reductions" in air pollution. The frequent "Beijing Blue" skies of 2020 stand in stark contrast to the heavy smog that peaked in the early 2010s, reflecting a new priority for sustainable urban living. Cultural Preservation vs. Modernity